Pattern Fitting: Waist Bigger Than Hip – A Comprehensive Guide
Hello, Readers!
Welcome to our in-depth guide on pattern fitting for garments with a waist measurement that exceeds the hip measurement. This common fitting issue can be frustrating, but with the right approach, you can achieve a flattering and comfortable fit. In this article, we’ll cover everything you need to know about pattern fitting waist bigger than hip, including different adjustment techniques, common pitfalls, and helpful tips.
Understanding the Problem
When the waist measurement of a pattern is smaller than the hip measurement, the garment will tend to fit too snugly around the waist and hips, resulting in an unflattering and uncomfortable fit. This can be caused by a variety of factors, including body shape, fabric choice, and pattern sizing.
Adjustment Techniques
1. Waist Darts
Waist darts are a simple but effective way to increase the waist circumference of a pattern. Darts are small, triangular folds of fabric that extend from the waistline to the hipline. By widening the darts, you can create additional ease around the waist without affecting the fit of the hipline.
2. Side Seam Expansion
Expanding the side seams is another common technique for fitting a waist bigger than hip. To do this, cut the pattern at the side seam and add a wedge of fabric that matches the difference between the waist and hip measurements.
3. Rearrange the Bodice Front and Back
If the waist adjustment is significant, you may need to rearrange the bodice front and back to create a new waistline. Measure the difference between the waist and hip measurements and divide it in half. Then, remove this amount from the bottom of the bodice front and add it to the top of the bodice back.
4. Full Seat Adjustment
For garments with a full seat, such as skirts or pants, you may need to adjust the seat area in addition to the waist. This involves adding a wedge of fabric to the back waist and seat seam to increase the fullness and create a more comfortable fit.
Tips for Success
- Use a well-fitting pattern: Start with a pattern that is close to your body measurements, especially around the waist and hips.
- Test the fit with a muslin: Before cutting into your fabric, sew a muslin prototype to test the fit. This will allow you to make any necessary adjustments before committing to the final garment.
- Consider fabric choice: Choose a fabric with some stretch for a more comfortable and forgiving fit.
- Pay attention to seam allowances: Make sure to add seam allowances when making your adjustments to prevent the garment from being too tight.
Troubleshooting
1. Too Much Bulk at the Waist
If you have added too much ease at the waist, the garment may become bulky or unflattering. To fix this, reduce the width of the waist darts or side seam wedges.
2. Too Much Hip Ease
If the hip area is too loose, the garment may sag or lose its shape. To correct this, reduce the amount of expansion at the side seams or full seat.
3. The Bodice Front and Back Don’t Align
If the bodice front and back don’t align after the waist adjustment, you may need to make a slight adjustment to the shoulder seams or neckline to ensure a smooth and flattering fit.
Table Breakdown: Waist Adjustment Techniques
| Technique | Effect |
|---|---|
| Waist darts | Increases waist circumference without affecting hipline |
| Side seam expansion | Adds ease around the waist and hips |
| Rearrange bodice front and back | Creates a new waistline by shifting fabric from the bodice front to the bodice back |
| Full seat adjustment | Increases fullness in the seat area, suitable for skirts or pants |
Conclusion
Fitting a waist that is bigger than the hip can be challenging, but by following the techniques outlined in this article, you can achieve a garment that fits comfortably and flatters your figure. Remember to test the fit with a muslin before cutting into your fabric, and don’t be afraid to make adjustments as needed.
Thank you for reading! Be sure to check out our other articles on pattern fitting and sewing for more tips and inspiration.
FAQ about Pattern Fitting Waist Bigger than Hip
Why should I fit my waist larger than my hips?
To create a garment that fits comfortably and allows for movement.
How much larger should I make the waist?
Usually 2-4 inches (5-10 cm).
How do I determine how much larger to make the waist?
Measure your waist and hips and subtract the hip measurement from the waist measurement. This will give you the amount to add to the waist.
Where should I add the extra width?
To the side seams at the waistline.
Should I make the waist bigger in the front or back?
Both, unless you have a specific issue that requires adjusting one area more than the other.
How do I know if I’ve made the waist too big?
If the waistband slides down easily or doesn’t feel snug around your waist.
What if the waist is too big after I’ve sewn the garment?
You can take in the side seams at the waistline to reduce the size.
Can I use this same technique for other body shapes?
Yes, this technique can be used for any body shape where the waist is larger than the hips.
Why is it important to fit the waist properly?
A properly fitted waist will make the garment more comfortable and flattering.
What are some tips for fitting the waist?
Use a measuring tape to ensure accuracy, and don’t be afraid to make adjustments until the fit is just right.
